Restaurant review: Asha
Jessica Galletly shares her review of Goodwood Road’s Asha, which is delivered by the team behind award-winning bar and restaurant Good Gilbert, just a couple of doors down.
Amid the haze of a pandemic hangover, rising cost of living and hospo staff shortages, there are still some Adelaide restaurateurs tackling the tide and opening more restaurants. Ask any one of them why they do so, and their response will be some iteration of, “because we’re crazy”. Perhaps they’re right. But to achieve great things we need a little crazy, no?
Take Wilson Shawyer, who together with his wife Isabelle, has teamed up with chef-restaurateur duo Scott Fox and Mel Holmes (formerly NSW) and local Steven Tsanakis, to open Asha – the third venue in Shawyer’s portfolio.
Asha follows the resounding success of Good Gilbert two doors down on Goodwood Road (last year named Best Bar in Australia by Gourmet Traveller), and casual Daw Park eatery Good Burger.
He also recently opened the doors to Gilbert’s Wine Bar and Grill in Torrensville – his dabble in the West.
“And that’s it,” Shawyer exhales with a smile, similar to how a parent assures they’re done with kids. And just as every child is different, so too is each of Shawyer’s restaurants – vastly so.
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While the revelry of Good Gilbert spills out onto the Goodwood Rd-Gilbert St corner – a mischievous sibling beckoning others to join the fun – Asha remains composed, elegant, understated. As such, you’ll have to peel your eyes for its discreet gold-lettered signage. You’ll then be warmly welcomed inside the moody-lit, intimate space (it seats 36), finished with cream-rendered walls, timber floors and plush booth seating. You can also sit at the bar, which is always fun, but beware it can be a little tricky to get on and off those seats.
To the food. Asha’s menu is divided into snacks, small dishes and large dishes, plus sides and desserts. It is, as many menus are now, designed for sharing, but even more so given the inspiration of the food itself – a contemporary blend of Middle Eastern, Northern African and Eastern European fare. It’s a refreshing addition to Adelaide’s dining scene and timely to take pause and celebrate the widely-loved flavours. If there’s anything that sounds unfamiliar, simply turn the menu to find explainers for dishes such as kuku sabzi (a herby Persian omelette) and toum (a creamy garlic sauce).
Do opt for the $6 oyster starter. Fresh and zingy with chilli, pickled celery and bay leaf oil, it’ll slap around your tastebuds in readiness for the main event.
I would happily bathe in Asha’s luxurious white bean puree, here plated so that aromatic olive oil pools in its centre before it’s finished with the Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar. Swoop it all up (but try not to fill up) with the almost-too-neatly cut Turkish bread.
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Two torpedo-shaped falafel sit atop an earthy, thick black sesame cream and while they could be crispier, the herb-spiked interior is wonderfully fluffy and elevated with a spritely salsa, made with the stems of parsley, coriander and mint. But what really piques our interest is the Yemenite flatbread lachuch – think, the lovechild of a pancake and a crumpet. Here, it’s served as palm-sized rounds and topped with a smoky eggplant and confit garlic puree, then chopped up roasted mushrooms (oyster, shimeji and chestnut) that have been tossed through a lemony oil – fold it like a taco and devour. Beware that dressing can begin to seep through the spongy bread, but I trust you’ll eat it as fast as I did. It’s lip-smackingly good.
From the ‘small dishes’ camp, battered eggplant is audibly crunchy (a beer would wash it down nicely) and surprisingly filling, the two thick slices piled atop herby tahini and showered with seeds and herbs. Even better is the octopus, cooked tender but not soft, and served in approachable bite-sized pieces atop a vibrant red pepper sauce. Kissed with hot thyme honey, it’s an example of how good octopus can be.
A trio of proteins make up the ‘large’ dishes: chicken, market fish and lamb. The fish – tonight, mulloway – is cooked respectfully, and served with a jumble of charred zucchini, pine nuts, currants and labneh (strained yoghurt), which feels rich at this point. On a previous occasion, it was shavings of pickled kohlrabi and fermented green chilli sauce that felt fresh and harmonious with the simply grilled, white fleshed fish.
When I dine here a third time, I will be saving room for dessert (bitter chocolate ganache has caught my eye). And there will be a third (and fourth and fifth etc) time, because Asha is a tasty little number with warm hospitality to boot. Less mischievous than Good Gilbert, more refined than Good Burger, and just as great as them all.
Chef: Scott Fox
Cuisine: Inspired by Middle Eastern, Northern African and Eastern European
Drinks: A considered wine list, plus cocktails/mocktails and mostly local beer. Discerning diners can also order from Good Gilbert’s heaving selection.
Cost: Snacks $12 (exceptional value); Small dishes $25; Large dishes $45
Verdict: Take that friend you’ve been meaning to catch up with – the intimate venue lends itself to good conversation.
Must try: Lachuch
Asha
135 Goodwood Road, Goodwood
0431 566 406
Open Wed-Fri 5pm-late; Sat 12pm-late
This article first appeared in the January 2025 issue of SALIFE magazine.
