Best experiences

Liz Walsh:
The Adelaide Oval is a pretty special place for me: some of my earliest childhood memories are of watching the cricket there in summer and now, it’s a place where footy has been spectacularly added to the program. In particular, I will never forget that magical day back in 2019 when more than 53,000 people jampacked the stadium to watch the AFLW grand final between Adelaide and Carlton. Having done a behind the scenes tour of the historic — and fascinating — heritage-listed scoreboard, I can’t imagine ever finding a better vantage point to look out across the grass. I highly recommend. Will I ever be brave enough to tackle the Roof Climb? Only time will tell.

Zoe Rice:
The whole experience at Mount Lofty House’s Sequoia Lodge is outstanding, but if there’s one thing you must tick off your bucket list, it’s a swim in the artesian spring-fed hot pools with a view over the Piccadilly Valley below.

Sequoia Lodge/Photograph Julian Cebo

Genevieve Meegan :
Bungaree Station, an historic sheep station on the outskirts of Clare, is a step back in time, wrapped up in modern conveniences. Bungaree was established in 1841 by the Hawker brothers, and today the property remains the home of generations of the Hawker family. This includes sixth generation Vicky and her husband Mark Stewart, who run the hospitality side of things. Vicky greeted us for check-in at The Station Store where a wall of old farm items are on display in original wooden cabinets — old medicine bottles and rusty, old tins containing what would have been the farmers’ rations more than a hundred years ago. It’s fascinating. Bungaree is an authentic, unique South Australian experience, a living museum showcasing what rural life would have been like here from 1841 until now. There are lots of activities for children including getting up close with the animals such as deer, kangaroos, sheep and horses, as well as tours of the heritage property. There is also a variety of accommodation options — we stayed in The Lodge, once the Gatekeeper’s cottage, and enjoyed a cosy night by the slow combustion fire.

Ben Kelly:
Oysters just seem to taste better when you’re sitting on Experience Coffin Bay’s tour boat, peering out over the oyster leases of Coffin Bay, with a local wine or gin and tonic in hand. This is shortly after you’ve suited up in some waders to walk amongst the oyster farm and learn about Eyre Peninsula’s fascinating aquaculture history. This Farm and Bay Tour takes you 18 kilometres out to a remote oyster lease on a sandbar where you can wade in pristine waist-high waters and hopefully spot a few dolphins.

Experience Coffin Bay

Best restaurants

Liz:
Bird in Hand’s new restaurant LVN is a carefully crafted artisan experience set inside a spectacularly renovated space that offers a look at stunning artworks indoors and a stunning garden outdoors. As expected at this calibre, the menu — from head chef Jacob Davey — is constantly evolving, but can feature dishes such as wallaby tart with fotina, truffle radish and sea lettuce; bluefin tuna with chu toro, capsicum, chilli and fragrant herbs; and wild venison with celeriac, muntries and bunya. The menu is curated to represent the three regions of Bird in Hand wines: Woodside (Peramangk), Finniss (Ngarrindjeri) and Tasmania (Paredareme). The entire dining experience can be paired with Bird in Hand wines — try the divine O if you get the chance — and you’ll need a good three hours, at least.

LVN

Zoe:
Drive down Watervale’s main street, past the general store and the primary school and you come to what looks like any country pub. But the Watervale Hotel is anything but ordinary. In the kitchen, you’ll find award-winning chef Nicola Palmer and often greeting the guests is her partner, Warrick Duthy. The pair are fiercely passionate about the region and the biodynamic farm they’ve built here, just a stone’s throw from the pub. Spoil yourself with one of the incredible experiences on offer — the best seat in the house is the chef’s table with a degustation in front of you. If you’re ordering a la carte, you can’t go past the kingfish wings.

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Celebrating International Women’s Day with Dr Catherine Grace

The Watervale Hotel/Photograph Duy Dash

Gen:
In a major milestone for FINO at Seppeltsfield, this November marks 10 years since the restaurant relocated from McLaren Vale to the Barossa Valley winery location. This is a regional dining experience that’s all about quality, authenticity and heart. The team, led by executive chef and co-owner David Swain, chef Daniel Murphy and the charismatic face of the place and co-owner Sharon Romeo, are all about great service and showcasing local produce in support of South Australian suppliers. Menu highlights include the Hampshire pork, fennel and fermented apple (with pork from Gumshire Heritage Pork) and the wagyu beef brisket with Brussels sprouts and black vinegar (with wagyu from Mayura Station on the Limestone Coast). Special offers such as “Pie July” and FINO Fridays are a great way to step into the FINO experience with friends.

Ben:
It feels as though Google Maps has steered you off course as you navigate the backstreets of Port Lincoln looking for Eyre Peninsula’s premier winery and restaurant. But when you spy the property’s vine-laden hills, it suddenly feels as though you’re in the Barossa Valley, except for the sea breeze and views of Boston Bay. Here, The Line and Label’s executive chef Mark Jensen does wonders with seafood and other local produce, artfully plated using herbs and flowers from the kitchen garden. Top it off with a tipple at Peter Teakle Wines’ $3 million cellar door.

Line and Label

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Best stays

Liz:
If I had to describe Kingsford The Barossa in three words, they would be: Special. Luxurious. Haven. What was once the famous (but rundown) farm from the much-loved McLeod’s Daughters television series, the property on the edge of the Barossa Valley has been completely transformed. Accommodation now includes bespoke-built Valley View Suites with private plunge pools, in addition to the eight luxury suites in the restored original 1856 homestead. A stay on the property should not go without a secluded picnic by a meandering creek, a degustation dinner at Orleana Restaurant (which is now also open to the public) and a turn — or three — of Kegel, which is the German version of 10-pin bowling. With expansion plans in the works under new owners, you get the sense it’s exciting times ahead at the station.

Kingsford The Barossa

Zoe:
Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island has always been special, but since it was rebuilt following the devastating bushfires on the island in January 2020, there’s even more heart to it. Every suite in the lodge faces the untamed Southern Ocean and the view is otherworldly. Yes, there are luxury touches everywhere, from the incredible gastronomic experience and free reign on the wine room, but staying here is about so much more. It’s about a connection to nature, which is exemplified through experiences that introduce you to the island intimately, including sundowner drinks with the island’s namesake hopping by.

Ben:
Kangaroo Island’s Tim and Tamsin Wendt are passionate advocates of Kangaroo Island conservation, which they showcase through their two spectacular Oceanview Eco Villas. Located on their Nepean Bay property which they have planted with native trees, and with a private piece of coast to boot, the two luxury villas attract guests from interstate and overseas. Culinary talent Tamsin prepares customised meals to serve to guests who can dine in their own five-star villa while enjoying the sublime vistas. “We know we’ve done our job if you leave here feeling better than when you arrived,” says Tamsin. I certainly did.

Oceanview Eco Villas

Gen:
As soon as you walk through the doors of The Louise, nestled amongst the vines and hills of Marananga in the Barossa Valley, you know you are in for next-level luxury. The 15 luxury villa suites have undergone a major renovation, and each has French doors opening to private courtyards taking in the beautiful vineyard views. Take a dip in the infinity pool overlooking the vines, before a pre-dinner drink on the deck of the award-winning Appellation restaurant, with views of vines for miles and an incredible menu from executive chef Joel Grudnoff. There is a variety of high-end experiences available at The Louise including adventure, food and wine and health and wellbeing, each incorporating the best that the Barossa Valley has to offer. But my favourite bit? The luxurious outdoor shower.

The Louise

Where would you spend a free afternoon?

Liz:
Having high tea at Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant, which is a highlight at Mount Lofty House. You’re hosted in the stylish dining room where gorgeously measured degustation meals from chef Jin Choi and an extensive wine list come your way. The setting is part of the house that was originally owned by Arthur Hardy, a young Englishman who loved the finer things in life. This carries on that legacy.

Zoe:
A picnic in Mount Lofty Botanic Garden in early autumn. A stop into Udder Delights Cheese Cellar in Verdun for the Ash Brie to go with some fresh fruit and Adixions raspberry blush chocolates. Rugged up, beanie on and a background of blazing oranges — perfect.

Adixions

Gen:
Any time spent by the sea is good for my soul, so I would head for the coast and do a walk from Grange to Henley and back, stopping for coffee or lunch in the sun at Henley Square. Greek restaurant Estia remains a favourite, especially with an outside table to enjoy people-watching. To top it all off I’d go and see some live music at the Semaphore Worker’s Club, and enjoy a cold beer on the lawn, looking out over the sea as the sun goes down.

Ben:
When I lived in Victor Harbor, I would’ve been out surfing the waves on the south coast but these days I’ve taken to spending the odd afternoon hiking around Morialta Conservation Park. The rugged cliffs are stunning and having this attraction so close to the city is a luxury that’s easy to take for granted. The 5.3-kilometre Second Falls Hike is brilliant, but it’s worth spending the whole arvo to do the longer Third Falls Hike, and a sure bet to see some ’roos. Even better if you can time it to catch golden hour during your final descent.

Morialta Conservation Park

Our go-to spots

Liz:
Melt on King William Road at Hyde Park has always been a favourite. I could quite easily live on the hummus with ground lamb, haloumi with pickled onions and chilli green beans for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Zoe:
Let the green glow of the neon sign beckon you into Good Gilbert on Goodwood Road. It’s a rare establishment that can balance perfectly in the middle of cool and cosy, but these guys have nailed it. The fact that they open their doors to neighbourhood dogs definitely helps — there’s even a wall of polaroids dedicated to pooches. The drinks list is impeccable, but if you’re undecided, give the helpful bartenders a general idea what you’re after and they’ll somehow get it right every time — a heavy red for me, please.

Good Gilbert

Gen:
Everything is right about Hutt Street’s hippest hospitality addition, the funky new Latteria. The décor of this Italian bar and restaurant is sophistication meets sexy retro ‘50s, complete with vinyl records on display. I love the shared food menu — a few of my favourites are the crab bun (with bbq corn, smoked salt and white pepper), golden potatoes and the gnocchi with wild boar ragu, pecorino and mint. The service is great, the bar extensive and the vibe — a long, lazy lunch.

Latteria

Ben:
Reliably good coffee is critical when you’re on deadline, and it’s no secret that SALIFE journalists favour the East End’s Penny University to get their fix. The small yet vibey cafe has a bit of New York atmosphere about it, tucked away down the grungy Sym Choon Lane and its vibrant street art. Behind the coffee machine is where you’ll find Penny’s founder Foti Likouris who is always keen for a chinwag. Hang around for the food, mouthwatering breakfasts and heroic sandwiches, and you’ll know why Penny’s is a cornerstone of the East End cafe scene.

Pick a town. What are you doing there?

Liz:
Goolwa. I’m starting the day with a walk on the long stretch of beach, followed by a coffee at Bombora on the River. I will definitely stop in at Artworx to look at their latest pieces, before lunch (and or dinner) at Kuti Shack.

Kuti Shack

Zoe:
Kimba. I’m waking up at Olive House and then stopping into Eileen’s on Main Street for breakfast. After a salmon bagel and Mahalia Coffee, I’m heading over to Workshop26 for some shopping, and then for dinner, it’s the Kimba Gateway Hotel – the embodiment of a welcoming country pub.

Gen:
Robe. Up early for a walk on Long Beach then head to the Robe Store cafe for a Mahalia coffee and brunch. Then, next door meander around the Holiday boutique — great for clothes, homewares and gifts. Then more shopping along Robe’s main street, with a stop off for gelati at the amazing Robe Ice Cream Shop. A couple of hours back at the beach, swimming and boogie boarding, a pre-dinner drink at The Caledonian Inn, then a barbecue at homebase with friends and family. Heaven.

Robe/Photograph Mish and Kirk

Ben:
Melrose is such a great little spot at the foot of Mount Remarkable where you can hire an e-bike from Over The Edge bike shop to tackle the new Epic Trail — a 38-kilometre mountain bike trail that has been in the making for some 20 years. The total elevation is around 1300 metres, and it’s recommended you allow six to eight hours, including a few rests along the way. Seeing this trail come to fruition is a major coup for both the local town and SA’s mountain bike community. The Epic Trail could be a bit too epic for newbies, but there are many more accessible trails all starting from the foot of the mountain.

Over The Edge

The article originally featured in the 2024 issue of SALIFE Food+Wine+Travel magazine.