Barley high: More reasons to drink SA craft beer this summer
Local barley, weirdly good water and innovative brewers ‘having a crack’ should see SA’s independent beers top your shopping list over the summer, says IBA’s Steve Brockman.
Steve Brockman reckons South Australia’s craft brewers are looking forward to a good summer of trading supported by the beer loving public.
That is the hope of Brand South Australia, our state’s champion of all things local, which has recently been promoting the industry as part of its Buy SA. For SA. campaign.
Brockman is the state chapter lead of the Independent Brewers Association (IBA) and technical sales manager at AMSAT Character Malts, a specialty malt supplier to craft breweries headquartered here in South Australia.
“If a brewery comes to us and says, ‘Hey, we’ve got a mate with three tons of barley growing in his paddock and we’d love to use that in our beer’, we’re the maltster that’s able to facilitate that,” he said.
This limitless thinking is driving the growing industry.
Not counting privately-owned Coopers, South Australia’s independent breweries number over 80, employ more than 2000 people and contribute about $120 million annually to the state’s economy.
By choosing local independent beer, South Aussies can support those jobs, help our local breweries grow and keep money in the state.
Smiling Samoyed Brewery is another one making great, local beer. Photo: suppliedSouth Australian quality
SA leads most states in barley production, coming in second nationwide and, as the state’s independent beer industry has grown, the supply chain has become more local.
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“I wholly and solely believe that some of the best malting grade barley in the world is grown in the paddocks of South Australia,” Brockman said.
“We’re seeing a lot of really fresh, great beers because of it.”
Like AMSAT, Coopers produces its own malt from local barley, which the company also sells to the independents.
“There are also a couple of local yeast companies and a couple of small hop farms, so it is possible to buy a lot of South Australian ingredients to go into beers, and we’re starting to see more of that happening in the industry,” Brockman said.
A second brewing advantage for the local industry – “actually I wouldn’t call it an advantage, more a quirk,” Brockman said – is the water quality.
With a high mineral content, it lends itself to brewing dark red ales and stouts.
“If you think of South Australian brewing history, a lot of dark beers pop up,” he said.
That stout tradition is carried on today by independents like Goodieson Brewery, Kick Back Brewing and Little Bang’s Sludge Beast, to name just a few.
A battle against the big guys
While the independent beer industry appears to be thriving, the Australian beer industry is dominated by just four players, making it one of the most restricted in the world.
IBA members’ sales account for less than 6 per cent of total beer sales in the country; Lion and CUB together have a whopping 83 per cent, while Coles and the Endeavour Group have another 5 per cent.
Yet, Brockman said, most of the innovation in beer production, trends in beer styles and use of unexpected ingredients is originating with small brewers.
“[Independent brewery] Robe Town, this year, brewed a beer with camel dung… smoked the malt with camel dung, which was an interesting process.
“[The beer] definitely was a bit of a hit floating around for a while.”
Collaborations with coffee roasters and bakeries is another trend.
Brockman gave the example of The Wheatsheaf Hotel’s Wheaty Brewing Corps teaming up with Small World Bakery to produce a kvass – a traditional, low alcohol sourdough beer – one he said was a “pretty cool” small-volume beer.
“These are people who are jumping in with both feet and really having a crack in the Australian sense of having a go at it,” he said.
“[Independent brewers] are doing really creative stuff and supporting local economies, especially our regional brewers.
“Our regional brewers probably don’t get enough love, but there are people starting businesses in places where you wouldn’t think to find a brewery.
“They’re providing a focal point for their communities and really helping to bring tourism to towns as well […] it’s super important.”
The state’s most remote and perhaps tiniest brewer, The Parachilna Brew Project at the Prairie Hotel serves travellers passing through the Flinders Ranges.
Brockman said servicing niche markets and providing “a sense of community” was something smaller breweries did well.
“I think sometimes it’s not necessarily about chasing the almighty dollar,” he said.
That aside, he reckoned breweries tend to be the forerunners revitalising urban areas and small towns.
“Generally, breweries go in first and then all the cool stuff follows afterwards… you see a couple of breweries and coffee shops move into your neighbourhood, [property] prices are about to go up.”
Identifying what’s local
With craft beers on the rise, it has become harder for beer lovers to identify a genuine independent beer brand.
Fighting back, the IBA has developed a logo featuring a beer glass and the words “certified independent” for its members’ cans, bottles and other packaging.
In addition, South Australian consumers can look for the State Brand or Buy SA. For SA. logo on the pack or in store.
“Quite a few of our South Australian breweries are also putting the state brand logo on their cans,” Brockman said.
He is confident that people will put independent beer at the top of their shopping list this summer.
“Pop into the local pub, find out what the local beer is; pop into the local brewery, support that facility or venue,” Brockman said.
“It means the money stays within South Australia and within local communities, which is always good.”
